CONVERTIBLE SLING BAG

Go out in style with this fashionable sling bag! This triangle-shaped sling bag sports a dual pocket front and the versatile zippered shoulder strap converts to either a one-shoulder or two-shoulder carrying strap. The bag comes with two zippered storage compartments and the aforementioned mobile phone pouch pocket.

Dimensions: approximately 15″ high / 14″ wide / 6″ deep with a 40″ [1 m] separating shoulder strap; an 8” [20 cm] zip front pocket and an 11″ [28 cm] deep front pouch. [38 cm x 35.5 cm x 15 cm]

Construction Method: Turned finish – this method may be recognized by noting the lack of machine-stitching that is visible at points of assembly on the exterior side of the bag except for topstitching. This is possible by placing the material, or parts, face to face, machining and turning right-side out. It is the most commonly used assembly process. The back section has a turned-edge finish. Skiving the seam allowance pares down the thickness of leather, along the outer edge to reduce bulk and/or allow for turning. A pocket lining is used to cover the interior of the front pouch for added support and a neat appearance.

Material Used: tanned cowhide leather with corded piping; 100% cotton pocket lining.

Design Tip: Other kinds of leathers may be used for this bag design as long as you select a fairly light-weight (think 2 to 3 ounce average, 1/16 inch thick) choice such as goatskin or pigskin. There are also many synthetic choices as well as durable woven fabrics in the marketplace that may be “easier” to handle other than genuine leather. In all cases, you may have to check that your sewing machine will be able to sew through several layers of the fabric before you proceed with making up this bag.

You will need:

  • 1 pair of metal square buckles, 1” dia. [25 mm]
  • 1 pair of metal grommets, ” dia. [10 mm]
  • 1 nylon coil separating zipper, 28” long [71 cm]
  • 1 nylon coil closed zipper, 14” long [35 cm]
  • 1 nylon coil closed zipper, 8” long [20 cm]
  • 1 cowhide or garment leather skin, 4-10 oz. (approx. 8 sq.ft)
  • yd. [0.3 m] of pocket lining, 24” wide [60 cm]
  • 2½ yds. [2.4 m] of pre-cut fusible interfacing, 1” wide [25 mm]
  • 1½ yds. [1.4 m] of cable cord, ¼” dia. [5 mm]
  • 1 spool of polyester heavy-duty thread
  • Double-sided mounting tape, 10 mm. wide
  • Leather punch
  • Leather brayer
  • Leather skiving knife
  • X-acto knife
  • Kraft paper

PATTERN

Draw a rectangle and label it, A-B-C-D.

A-B = 21″ [53.5 cm].

A-C = 14″ [35.5 cm].

Square down from C and square across from B to locate D.

D-E = 6″ [15 cm].

Square across to locate F.

B-D-E-F is the base of the bag.

Find the mid-point of line A-C; label point G.

Square down from G to locate H.

A-G-H-F represents the front section of the bag.

1 from G = 4″ [10 cm].

Join F to 1 with a straight line.

2 from G = 3″ [7.5 cm].

Square 3 from 2 = 4-1/2″ [11.5 cm].

Square 4 from 3 = 3/8″ [1 cm].

Join F and 4 with a straight line.

5 from 2 = 2″ [5 cm].

6 from 5 = 4″ [10 cm] or half the desired zipper length (optional)

7 from 6 = 3/8″ [1 cm].

This is the front pocket with inset zipper.

Square down from 7 to locate 8 on base.

9 from 8 = 1″ [2.5 cm].

This is the buckle placement.

1-G-H-F is the bag front.

G-C-E-H represents  the back section of the bag.

10 from G = line G-1.

Join E to point 10 with a straight line.

Draw a 45º angle line from E; on this tangent line measure 1″ [2.5 cm] from E.

Arc a curve to pass through this point and lie on lines E-10 and E-H.

Measure the length of 10-E + half of B-D.

Measure this distance from 10 to curve at E to H (and beyond) to locate point 11.

Join G to 11 with a straight line. Square from this line (12) to blend smoothly into curve at E.

Square from G a curve to meet point 10.

13 from G = 2″ [5 cm].

square 14 from 13 = 1″ [2.5 cm] for the grommet placement.

G-10-E-12 is the bag back.

Draw a rectangle and label, H-I-J-K.

H-I = 1-F.

Square down from J and square across from I to locate K.

H-J = half of B-F.

M is the midpoint of line H-J.

Join M to K with a straight line.

For the front portion of the gusset, round off the point at K with a curved arc (as shown).

Square at M on line M-K to line H-M to locate N.

N-M-K-I is the gusset of the bag.

Draw a square and label O-P-Q-R.

O-P and O-Q = 6″ [15 cm].

This is the collar ring (neck) for the bag.

Trace off the following sections on pattern paper:

BASE = F-E-D-B.

COLLAR = O-Q-R-P.

SIDE GUSSET = N-M-K-I.

BACK = G-10-E(rounded)-12.

Fold pattern paper in half and align centerline (G-H) on foldline:

FRONT = 1-G-H-F.

FRONT POCKET = 3-2-H-F-4

Add seam allowance to all pattern pieces except for top of gusset pieces and cut out pattern.

CUTTING

Tip: Use a rotary cutter or X-acto knife, along with a metal ruler to cut leather.

         Remember to “flip” pattern pieces to mirror image.

FRONT – cut 1X leather

FRONT POCKET – cut 1X leather

BACK – cut 2X leather (mirrored)

FRONT GUSSET – cut 2X leather (mirrored)

BACK GUSSET – cut 2X leather (mirrored)

NECK COLLAR – cut 1X leather

SHOULDER STRAP – cut 2X leather ( 40” long x 3” wide) [100 cm x 7.5 cm]

BUCKLE STRAP – cut 2X leather (10” long x 3” wide) [25.5 cm x 7.5 cm]

POCKET LINING – cut 1X pocketing

PIPING TRIM – cut 2X leather (approx. 24” [61 cm] long x 1½” [4 cm] wide

ASSEMBLY

For all pieces: Bevel the seam allowance with the leather skiving knife on each leather piece to reduce any bulk when turning.

a) Small Parts Preparation

Making Leather Piping with a Cord Filler – To make up, cut 2 strips of leather to desired length and twice the width of your filler, plus seam allowance. (I used a 1/4″ cable cord inside the piping as a filler).

Take advantage of double-sided seam tape. One piece on the edge, and one piece on the center. Remove the release paper and stick the cording on center without any twists. Here again, this is the real trick to making up piping trim successfully (try to do this some other way and see what happens). Then, fold the leather straight over and press the edges together.

Now lets sew it together. A cording foot is one of my favourite tools for this job when I make it in leather but you may use a roller foot as well. The leather and filler are controlled by the seam tape as they feed between the foot and the guide for a straight tight seam. Set piping aside.

Making Buckle Strap – To make up, cut 2 strips of leather to desired length and twice the width of the inner diameter of your buckle, plus seam allowance. (I used a 1” diameter metal buckle with a prong).

Once again, make use of the double-sided seam tape. One piece of tape on each long edge, and fold each side towards center. Remove the release paper and stick the wrong sides of the leather strip on center without any twists. Press the folded edges with a nylon hand brayer to set the fold.

Topstitch around the perimeter of the strap. A roller foot is my favourite tool for this job when I make it in leather. Use a leather punch to make a hole in the leather for the buckle’s prong. Attach buckle into place and secure it by stitching across the ends of the strap. Repeat for second buckle and set aside.

Make Shoulder Strap – To make up, cut 2 strips of leather to desired length and twice the finished width of inner diameter of the buckle, plus seam allowance. Bevel the seam allowances with the skiving knife on each leather strips to reduce any bulk when turning.

Cut 2 lengths of narrow Knit-fuse® interfacing (I used pre-cut tape sold by the roll) equal to the length of the leather straps. Iron on fusible interfacing to back of leather strips on one side of center.

I know this is contrary to what you have heard of leather care yet you CAN heat press leather. Now, this may seem like the exact opposite of good care treatment, but “fusible knit interfacing” that tailors and seamstresses use, will add body to thin layers without stiffening the leather. It has an extremely thin layer of dried adhesive on one side of it which you activate with heat without much pressure.
Now here’s the part that the leatherworks will get up in arms about — fuse some of the Knit-fuse
® to the leather, meaning you stick it under a press (like a 30″ long iron, with the option of using steam), sandwiched in-between layers of brown paper (I used brown kraft paper aka parcel wrap). So the sandwiched layers are: bottom of the press, then brown paper, then leather (FACE SIDE DOWN), then fusible interfacing, then the top layer of the brown paper, then the top of the press. The sandwich is heat-pressed for say 10 seconds (you might want to trial-test your timing on a scrap piece). You can also do this operation using a hand-iron but you will need to pin the leather to an ironing board to prevent it from shifting, and use a low-setting on your steam iron. Ok, that said, I wonder if anybody out there wants to scream at me that applying heat to leather is not advisable? Do remember that the grain side of the leather is not ever touching a hot surface — just the back side gets the heat. Although this leather isn’t thick, do not rest your iron for more than 10 seconds at a time, keep it moving in a up-and-down direction. (That is why the 30” press is a better option; the leather will not move). Most importantly, allow the fixed leather to cool down completely before going to the sewing machine.
This operation is done frequently in mass-production, and it does not damage the leather, and the fusible interfacing adheres marvellously to the wrong side/suede side of the leather, lending just the amount of body that one would want to stabilize the shoulder straps to apply the long zipper.

Make use of the double-sided seam tape to attach the long separating zipper, with one piece of tape on each long edge of the zipper tape. Allow approximately 10 inches from the end of each leather strip and align zipper to edge of leather. Remove the release paper and stick the zipper, FACE SIDE UP, to the FACE SIDE of the leather strips which has the applied interfacing. Sew in place, using a zipper foot attachment. Turn in the sewn edge and press the seam with a nylon brayer to set the fold. Use more double-side seam tape to hold the rolled seam down.

Next, turn in the seam allowance on the opposite edge of the leather strap and press it down using the hand roller and double-sided tape.

Fold the leather in half lengthwise, with wrong sides together, and align the turned-edge along the zipper teeth. Use double-sided seam tape to keep the layers together. Press with hand roller to neaten the turning.

Topstitch around the perimeter of the shoulder strap, using the roller foot attachment for this job when making it in leather. Use a leather punch to make several evenly-spaced holes in the leather, on the free end of the shoulder strap, for the buckle. Repeat this method for other side of the separating zipper and set aside.

b) Front Pocket Construction

Cut 2 strips of fusible interfacing tape equal to the width of the front pocket piece. Using the same procedure described above for heat pressing leather, iron 1 strip of fusible interfacing to the top edge of the front pocket; and the second, over the zipper opening on the back of the leather.

Mark the placement of the zipper opening onto the back side, using tailor’s chalk. Carefully cut out the outline of the opening, with the aid of a metal ruler and sharp X-acto knife.

Align the zipper, FACE SIDE UP, from the back of the leather so that the zipper is centered in the cut-out window. Use double-sided seam tape to secure the position.

Topstitch around the outline of the opening to attach the zipper, using the roller foot attachment.

Layer the front pocket and the pocket lining, with FACE SIDES together, matching the top edge of the pocket. Stitch lining in place. From FACE SIDE of lining, understitch lining to leather.

On the wrong side of the leather, lightly score a line parallel to this seam, 1-inch away [2.5 cm]. Fold leather on the scored line and turn under facing. With FACE SIDE UP, edgestitch along top of folded edge of pocket. Machine-baste sides of front pocket with lining. Set aside.

c) Gusset Construction

Take 1 front and 1 back of the gusset pieces and lay them with FACE SIDES together. Stitch center seam and press seam open with hand roller. Grade one of the seam allowances and fold the wider seam allowance over the graded one. With FACE SIDE UP, edgestitch along the center seam to catch the seam allowances underneath the layers. Set aside.

Take the remaining pair of gusset pieces and attach closed zipper in the center seam. Do this by, taping the zipper, FACE SIDE DOWN to the center seam on the FACE SIDE of the leather and from the bottom of the seam. Sew in place, using a zipper foot attachment. Turn in the sewn edge and press the seam with a nylon brayer to set the fold. Use more double-side seam tape to hold the rolled seam down. With FACE SIDES UP, topstitch on both sides of the zipper to secure, using the roller foot attachment to prevent drag on the leather. Set aside.

d) Back Construction

Take the pair of back pieces and lay them with FACE SIDES together. Stitch center seam and press seam open with hand roller. With FACE SIDE UP, edgestitch along both sides of the center seam to catch the seam allowances underneath.

On the back of the leather, mark the placement points for the grommets. Iron on a small square of fusible interfacing at these 2 points, as directed above, to stabilize the area.

Using a leather punch, make a hole at each location (if the hole is too small for the stem of the grommet, carefully clip into the outline of the hole to release it slightly). From the FACE SIDE, push a grommet into each hole and secure, following manufacturer’s directions.

e) Body Construction

Lay the Front Pocket, FACE UP onto the Front section of the bag. Match the bottom corners of the Front Pocket to the bottom corners of the Front (at point F) and align the raw edges at the sides to create a slight ease at the top of the pocket (the top edge of the pouch will bow slightly). Machine-stitch the Front Pocket to the Front piece.

With FACE SIDES together, layer the Base piece on top of the Front section and match the long seam.

Machine-stitch the seam and press seam open with hand roller. Grade the seam allowance of the Base piece and fold the wider seam allowance over the graded one. With FACE SIDE UP, edgestitch along the seam on the Base piece to catch the seam allowances underneath the layers.

With FACE SIDE UP, align and match piping trim to outer edges (sides) of the Front-Base section.

Machine-baste in place.

With FACE SIDES together, align and match a gusset to each side of the Front-Base section. The gusset with the zipper is located on the right-hand side of the bag. Sew each seam following the stitch line of the piping trim. Clip into the seam allowance if necessary to release any puckering of the seam

At top of each gusset, fold the gusset, with FACE SIDES together, and sew across top with a slant 1/4-inch seam allowance (this seam will be hidden inside the bag).

Three sides of the bag are complete. Once again, making use of the double-sided seam tape, tape the open edge of the partially completed bag. Remove the release paper and stick the wrong sides of the leather edge (seam allowance) toward the inside of the body, without stretching the leather (you may clip the seam allowance if needed). Press the folded edges with the hand brayer to set the fold.

Repeat this step on the back section. You will definitely need to clip the curved seam allowance at the top of this section and at the corners. (I often find it easier to use shorter lengths of tape on curved seams for more control when turning the leather).

Now, carefully match and butt the folded edges together (FACE UP), align the seam along the outer edge of the back section (I find paper clips or clothespins are ideal for holding the layers together).

Before edgestitching the layers together, slip the shoulder strap between the 2 grommet holes, and center-align the shoulder strap over the centerback seam with the zipper FACE SIDE UP. Machine-stitch the curved seam to the Front section, tucking in the gusset tops on each side.

Along the bottom edge of the back section, locate the placement positions for the buckles. Slip the bucket strap between the 2 layer at each location (the buckle prong should face up). Edgestitch the outer edge of the bag along the sides and bottom.

f) Finishing

Make up the Neck Collar – Start by, taping 2 opposite edges on the wrong side of the Neck Collar piece. Remove the releasing paper and turn under the edges (seam allowance). Press the folded edges with the hand brayer to set the fold.

With FACE SIDES together, fold the Collar piece in half lengthwise and sew up the raw edges. Press the seam open with the hand roller. Turn Collar piece right-side-out.

Now, fold the Collar piece width-wise, with FACE SIDES OUT, and align the folded edges together. Tape open side close, if desired. Edgestitch along the turned edge to create a collar ring.

Slide the Neck Collar onto the Shoulder Strap and pull it down to the end of the Shoulder Strap (as shown in the front view of the bag) to cinch up the top of the bag. Alternatively, you may leave the Collar off and allow the top of the bag to lie flat (as shown in back view of the bag).

Make a Grip Handle – Construct a leather “cord” by folding a scrap piece of leather over a cord filler and stitch it as a leather cord. Thread each end of the leather through the grommet holes. Knot each end of the leather cord to prevent the grip from sliding out (do this by going into the cavity of the bag via the side zipper opening).

Attach the loose ends of the Shoulder Strap to each of the buckles. (if you plan to adjust the Shoulder Straps often, you might want to reinforce the holes in the strapping with metal eyelets).

69 Comments

Filed under Bag'n-telle, Design Ideas

69 responses to “CONVERTIBLE SLING BAG

  1. Kim

    Oooh, thanks for this pattern, Don. I think I feel a new bag coming on.

    Kim

  2. Jo Ann

    Fabulous! Love it! Scared of working with leather, though. (Just the thought of it has me clucking!) This chicken will have to make a “muslin” first. It’s so sweet, it seems like only leather will do!

    Question: Did you use a twin needle on the back?

    Thanks so much!

    • Don

      Thank you Jo Ann.
      I might suggest trying a different kind if you are not confident working with leather. I used cowhide for this prototype but other leathers would be equally non-pareil or you might try the synthetic route. Give it a try. As for the stitching, no twin needle was used, rather a leather needle wedge point 14/90.

      Don

  3. Kah-Wee

    Thanks again for a great tutorial, Ron. I had a black bag exactly like that years ago, my favourite. Though I have no confidence making this, I’m going to attempt it anyway.

    • Don

      Thanks Kah-Wee. You’ll have more confidence if you first make up a “toile”. This will allow you to practice the construction and sequence of assembly. To imitate leather, use a thick wool felt as your medium.

      Don

  4. Wow, talk about timing! I was just this weekend drooling over the GROOM backpacks at Marcy Tilton’s website. This is a very nice approximation of the concept. http://marcytilton.com/index.php?cid=107 . I love your site and learn so much here, thank you!

    • Don

      Marcy does nice work, thanks for the link S.
      Strange how designers have the same ideas at the same time. You’d think they all have a chat over coffee and decide what they will do next. In fact, it’s quite the opposite. Designers are very secretive about what they do until after they show their collections. We have the same ideas at the same time because we are exposed to similar influences and we are looking for inspiration at the same time.
      The fashion industry is a small community, and whether you are living in Paris, New York, or in my case, Toronto, you are going to be exposed to similar inspirational influences as other designers. We look at similar things, like art exhibitions, new creative work (design, architecture, fine art), new bands or other performance artists, interesting films, new books that have come out (and I don’t mean paperbacks, I mean visual books with creative work, like retrospective books or photography books), etc. Some designers will go off to foreign countries to get inspired, but they may have also been inspired by their last vacation, which was probably to some trendy holiday hotspot that many other designers travel to as well. Everyone is exposed to similar ideas, and because designers have often been trained in the same ways, they just tend to move in the same directions. They “feel” things at the same time.
      I’ve always been of the mind that everyone is a designer and everyone is influenced by whatever is around them. You only need the confidence to take it a step further and execute those ideas, and I am happy to show you how to use your “undiscovered” creativity. Afterall, it isn’t rocket science.
      Don

  5. Tam

    Hi Don,
    Found your site today by accident . Love it ! Thank you so much !

  6. convertible theme

    I get pleasure from, result in I discovered exactly what I used to be looking
    for. You’ve ended my 4 day long hunt! God Bless you man. Have a nice day. Bye

  7. Hi Don, Found your blog and this amazing tutorial whilst searching for some bag making inspiration. Am trying my hand at marking out the pattern myself, but I can’t see the instructions for the placement of 5,6 and 7 for the inset zipper in the front pocket. Could you advise please. Thanks in advance

    • Don

      The zipper placement on the pouch pocket is approximately 1 inch below the pocket opening. However this may be “tight” for some people to construct depending on their choice of leather. I did show it on my draft but left it as an option for anyone who wished to move the placement to better fit under their sewing machine foot. I will add the instructions for the placement line for you. Thanks for asking, Kass. Don

  8. Pingback: Convertible Sling Bag Sewing Tutorial by Don Morin

  9. Another fab pattern and tutorial conquered! Have tweaked the size and the shaping a bit to suit my needs, but here’s the finished result repurposed from a suede jacket
    http://s35.photobucket.com/user/celestria1972/library/Facebook/Another%20recycling%20project

  10. Ann

    Thanks for this bag, am starting a new professional job again after living the fiber artist life for several years. Tired of trying to keep the wolves at bay. Making this bag will be my first treat for myself!

    But first a question. When I looks at the pics of the front and the back views of the bag, they don’t really correspond to each other. The back is wide where the straps meet the back. When you look at the front, the bag gathers down to the wrapped loop on the straps. Am I looking at two different bags or am I missing something? Thanks for getting me straight on this.

    • Don

      Your eyes are not deceiving you, Ann. I have shown 2 views of the same style. The “front” view shows the strapping held with a leather collar and the “back” view shows it without it. I provided both as options as I do not know what material you will use to construct the bag.

  11. Chris

    I suppose that is Toronto Canada, as I live in the other Toronto, Australia. I have one of these bags in leather and the zipper is broken. Maybe I can now fix it myself!

  12. This bag is absolutely gorgeous, to die for. I have until September to make it in time for my junior year of high school, but I feel overwhelmed. I have only been sewing for a year and I never worked with leather. Also I am not the best at understanding diagrams.

    • Don

      Thank you Melissa. As you are a novice at sewing, I might suggest that you try to make up this sling bag in a heavy fabric like denim or canvas on your first attempt. Start with “baby steps” and hone your skills to make it up in leather at a later time. You might also look at the fantastic array of upholstery fabrics on the market. With a bit of piping and some colourful zippers, it would look great for back to school.

  13. EXACTLY what i’ve been looking for! Thrilled to have found your blog. Thanks!

  14. Mary Isabel

    Very beautiful bag!!! It’s possible that you show pics or video about assembly?, Because most of people from latin america don’t understand english, I´m from Colombia, and I would like to make the bag, but some instructions are a little hard to understand

    Thanks for you help

    Mary Isabel

  15. MORZIERE Cathy

    wouah ! quel sac … pas facile pour comprendre la traduction de Google … ça va être chaud !

  16. Titi

    Wouah ! I would like to do it, but Google trad is not perfect in french, and it’s so difficult to understand what you mean in your tuto … Kisses from france

  17. Hi Don
    I posted in June under a the handle @melissa_duchan but I didn’t start until now. The line from F to 1 does not intersect with 2-3 in my pattern. How can I solve this issue?

  18. Соня

    Спасибо! Интересная модель! Вы щедрый человек!

  19. Jenny

    Thanks for this Don, I have been looking for a small backpack pattern to make next year for a camera bag. Would you mind if I alter this to suit my new toy that Santa is giving me? I want it to fit camera and lens with a little padding and maybe use leather lacing and tooled leather accents (if I get adventurous??)

    I have a very similar bag from Myer as my handbag and that was really expensive to buy so this is a dream come true for me!!

  20. Muito legal este molde, era exatamente o que eu estava procurando, rápido fácil, e pelo o que eu estou vendo ainda vai dar para eu enfeitar um pouco. ^_^ Brigadinha!

  21. Bruna Curtosi

    Is it possible to show video on this bag? I would be very interested even for a fee. I have looked over and over and tried it twice and it’s a disaster. I followed your video on craftsy and made a beautiful bag but this is my dream bag (convertible sling bag).

    • Don

      Video making & book writing…if only I had the time.😀
      My suggestion is to make up a mock-up before trying the final prototype. Feel free to change it up to meet your own needs. You may want to read my post on Making A Mock Up…you see it even happens to me. But then, that is what designing is all about, isn’t it?

  22. Hello Don,
    I am having trouble understanding the neck collar part. Is the collar supposed to look like a tube? How do I slide the finished collar onto the straps? Aren’t the straps already sewn into the place?

    • Don

      Yes Yuju the “collar” is a tube. It slides along the strapping and “neatens” the connection of the strap-join at the top of the bag. The straps fix into buckles at the base of the bag.

  23. Sheila Hamilton

    Looking forward to making the bag but I’ve got stuck trying to find point 11.
    Measure the length of 10-E + half of B-D. For me this is 15.5 in + 7in = 22.5 in.
    Measure this distance from 10 to curve at E to H (and beyond) to locate point 11. 22.5in takes me way off the page – I know your diagram is not to scale but this can’t be right.

    Can you help ?

    Thanks Sheila

    • Don

      I’ll try to help, Sheila. Can you PM me with a .jpeg of your draft?

      • Pe

        I have exactly the same problem that Sheila had. Completely stuck on point 11. Any advice Don? Thank you!🙂

        • Don

          Sometimes spatial skills are required when patternmaking. Basically, the measured length of 10-E-11 = 10-E-D. Measure the front and base section, then use this amount to locate point 11.

  24. Pingback: Pattern testers needed! | moonbags

  25. Monika

    this bag is exactly what I need, so I tried to make it in a lighter-weight denim. Everything went fine thanks to your tutorial.
    When I assembled the pieces I found the upper part of the bag looking differently than yours. The circumference of the upper edge is too wide to bring it under the collar. Seems to me your bag is longer and getting narrower at the top. With my bag I can’t tuck the edges under the collar; it is all nasty pleats and folds then, and the collar won’t stay in place.
    Did I miss something in your instructions?
    Otherwise nice bag. only a bit more triangular and not so nicely rounded as on your photos

    • Don

      The neck of the bag IS wider yet if you choose to use the “collar” ring, it will cinch in the top. If you can’t live with its appearance, I would taper the top front and back edges to your liking and disregard the ring. I always encourage to make it your own by adding your own personal touches to a bag design.

  26. Алекс

    На самой последней фотографии (https://bagntell.files.wordpress.com/2012/05/2c.jpg) изображен другой рюкзак. Смотрите на его верхнюю часть. Она не сужается кверху!

    • Don

      The photographs illustrate two versions of this style; one with the “collar tab” and the same style without it.
      Фотографии иллюстрируют две версии этого стиля; один с вкладке “воротник” и в том же стиле без него.

      • Алекс

        Верно. Я не сразу разобрался с переводом. Спасибо за ответ.
        Right. I did not immediately take care of the transfer. Thanks for the reply.

  27. Pingback: Introducing the convertible slingbag/ backpack pdf pattern | moonbags

  28. Jodie

    I am SO happy to have found your blog! I finally worked up the confidence to begin using a machine for more than just a straight stitch a year and a half ago after hand-sewing everything else before (needless to say I didn’t sew a helovalot). I’ve come to point in my work where the lack of technique outshines the creativity of it. Your instructions are perfect! Not only will I be able to learn base techniques in a professional manner, but also see them in practice through your wonderful tutorials! Thank you so much for your generosity. I’d take a class if you had one close lol

  29. Muy agradecida por los moldes, excelente modelo.GRACIAS…

  30. Neelesh Dubey

    Hi Don,

    I am a leather handbag designer from Delhi India. Met by chance with your site and have rec emended to my college FDDI from where I did my bachelors in leather accessories design. Students are loving it.

    Thanks!

    Neelesh

  31. Hi Don – I’m thinking medium to heavyweight corduroy. What do you think?

  32. Cher T

    Hi Don

    I wanted to thank you for sharing this design. I was trying to replace an old back pack I purchased while in Sienna, Italy many years ago. It has been much loved and showing signs of wear. This design of yours is the closest I have found to it.

    I have made it in a home dec remnant as I have not sewn on leather before and wanted to just deal with the design first. I was using it to try it out and could not believe how many compliments I have received for it.

    I took it with me to a sewing event at Bernina and after having left the room for a few minutes I came back to find about 6 women gathered around it and admiring it. They were waiting for me to return so they get permission to ‘touch’ it. I made sure to give them all your name and blog name.

    Now I just have to advance to making it in leather. I have your Craftsy class on making a leather bag, which was wonderful btw. I have gathered the tools and that will be my next project.

    I would send you photos but I can’t see how to do that.

    Thank you

  33. Mary Hubbert

    Hello Don, I love this bag and desperately want to make it! I have been sewing nearly all my life and sew basically from ready made patterns. I have never made and drawn a pattern in my life. However, I can draw it out if I have the specific measurements. Is there any way I can get specific measurements in inches (or even in centimeters) for each pattern piece. Thanks!

    • Don

      Thanks Mary. Just follow the drafting instructions (measurements are given both in imperial and metric). Then trace off each section and add seam allowances.

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